XJ Jeep

I got an email from Matt asking about how to get the lift gate gas struts out and replaced. This might be a simple thing but not until you’ve done it once or twice.

So, this is usually a 5-10 minute job to replace both gas struts, and I do recommend replacing both at the same time. That gate coming down on the head will leave a bump!

Have a friend with you holding the gate in the up position. Work on the first strut by removing the (2) 10mm bolts at one end. Then with a small screw driver, on the ball end, you’ll see a “clip” retrainer holding on the ball. Facing you there will be a small divit for getting the screw driver in and pulling the clip out part way. This will allow the strut to be removed. Replacement is done in reverse, just pull the clip out part way put the strut in place and lock the clip down. Then it’s just putting the bolts back in for the opposite end. Now, switch spots with your friend and do the other side.

Matt - I’ll try to get pictures up tomorrow as a reference. And thank you! I try to get to all questions and as our parents told us, “there is no such thing as a dumb question”. If you don’t ask, you’ll never learn. So ask and I’ll try to get to them all as quickly as I can. And happy jeeping!

Based on this comment I thought I would give a little extra tip while answering the question.

Tony is getting a 112 error code with his 05 TJ 4.0L. Nice thing about the 4.0L, it’s the same in every Jeep it finds a home in. So, while it’s not very common this sensor dies, it is possible. I’ve had it happen with a previous motor swap. The “new” donor motor did have a bad sensor. It’s a quick and painless R&R (remove and replace). If you have an Autozone in your area, the website calls the sensor a “Air Charge Sensor”. Don’t ask, I still don’t get how they come up with different names than a service manual has. Part number is: SU3036 and is price at $27.99.

If you click on this picture for a larger version, you’ll see I’ve highlighted the sensor itself on the 4.0L intake. If you feel adventurous, you can follow Dino Savva’s instructions for relocating the IAT to the air box. I personally have not done this mod yet, but I’m sure I will in the future when I have more mods to do under the hood. Right now, it’s bone stock for me.

Hope that helps and gives a bit more insight to the IAT.

An update to my original post about the Fuse panel. Here is an image of the fuse panel. This is located on the passenger side kick panel.

Needed to order a new track bar screw and retaining nut as the one I used, became stretched and loose. Figured may as well use the factory spec ones since the 8.8 one I used didn’t work very well. Another 100 mile trip and seems to be holding much better. Guess 10.9 strength does make a small difference.

Parts were only $10.60 plus tax. One day order time from the local dealer.

This information is for 2000 Jeep Cherokee

4.0L I6 Engine - Lubrication - 10W-30 - 6.0 Quarts
4.0L I6 Engine - Cooling - Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze/Water - 12.0 Quarts

AW4 4-speed Automatic - Dexron II/III ATF - 3.5 Quarts (Service Fill)
AW4 4-speed Automatic - Dexron II/III ATF - 8.9 Quarts (Overhaul Fill)

NP231 Transfer Case - Dexron II/III ATF - 2.5 Pints
NP242 Transfer Case - Dexron II/III ATF - 2.9 Pints

Dana 30 Front Axle - 75W-90 GL-5 Gear Oil - 2.5 Pints
Chrysler 8.25″ Rear Axle - 75W-90 GL-5 Gear Oil - 4.8 Pints

Mobile One Filters

M-204
4.000 inches Length
3.500 inches Diameter

M-301
5.000 inches Length
3.500 inches Diameter

Oil filter study done, showing that Mobile One filters the best all around filter. The down side is price. But you do get what you pay for in life.

2000 JEEP Cherokee

High & low beam headlamp
H6054
H6054ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H6054XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light
H6054CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light
H6054LL Long Life Halogen Upgrade: Lasts 6x longer

Parking light
3157
3157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front turn signal
3157
3157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Rear turn signal
3157
3157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Tail light
3157
3157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

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10 x 1.25mm is the tap needed to chased these threads being used.

(2) M10 x 1.25mm x 35mm into frame mounted nuts, that have been chased of debris.

(2) M10 x 1.25mm x 35mm bolts with nuts for open holes on frame rail (passenger side).

(3) M8 x 1.25mm x 35mm bolts with nuts for front bumper mounts.

(more images later)

Taken from NAXJA post

Here’s the passenger side kick panel fuse breakdown for a 2000 XJ

01 – 25A Power Outlet
02 – 25A Cigar Lighter
03 – 10A Left Headlight
04 – 10A Left Headlight
05 – 10A Right Headlight
06 – 05A Dash Lights
07 – 10A Left Parking Lamps
08 – xx Unused
09 – 10A Auto Unlock
10 – 15A Headlight Delay
11 – 20A Transmission Control
12 – 10A Defog Timer
13 – xx Unused
14 – 10A Power Mirror
15 – 25A Passenger Power Locks
16 – 10A Right Headlight
17 – 15A Radio
18 – 10A Driver Power Licks
19 – 10A Clutch Interlock
20 – 15A Tow Connector
21 – 15A Horn
22 – 20A Rear Wiper
23 – 10A Right Parking Lamps
24 – xx Unused
25 – 15A Heater
26 – 10A Air Bag Control
27 – 10A Air Bag Control

Taken from NAXJA post
So, before outlining the proceedure (a.k.a. “key trick”) to get the codes, a few things to note:
1) You may have to set the parking brake for the codes to show
2) On older models, the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it’s probably just a single 55 since codes are not repeated (55 is end of codes - it’s normal)
3) On newer models with a digital odometer, the codes are usually displayed on the odometer rather than blinking the check engine light.
4) When the computer indicates major failure, it can activate “Limp In” mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure, allowing you to get the car to a mechanic. One major symptom of this is losing third and/or fourth gear on autos.

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